Gelliwig April 2012
A Skiing, Snowshoeing, Ice Climbing holiday in the Queyras, France

What a delightful village – a mixture of very old and the new, friendly and helpful locals (very few had any English at all but it is surprising how well you can communicate with the odd word and some hand gestures and pointing...!!). The ski apartment was, in Darron’s words ‘bigger than the average and a great deal cheaper...!!). It was an easy and pleasant walk into the village for bread in the morning and a beer in the evening.

Perhaps the toughest day and the one where I felt I had really achieved was our ice climbing day. We set off from the car park in Celliac at 11.30am to climb ‘Holiday on Ice’. This is a 250 metres climb which we completed in 6 pitches. It was not all hard as in between the ice steps were some easy snow gullies. The hardest pitch was a 40 feet ice face that was at 90 degrees......a challenge!!. Darron was brilliant – and 3 ice screws were strategically placed. For me, my first ever ice climb, to second that pitch gave me an enormous sense of achievement. We finally arrived back at the car (it was a long descent...!!) at 6.30pm....!!! Both, to say the least, were very weary by the time we arrived back at the apartment but very happy after a fantastic day.
All in all we had a fabulous time and it is certainly a place we would recommend for a varied holiday in the Alps. The Quyeras is an excellent place to holiday, very family friendly and a great venue for those who do not ski but want to enjoy the beauty and the atmosphere.
Cranking it out at Audley!
Friends & Family 2011
The friends & family weekend is a relaxed chilled event organised primarily as a social occasion so that friends and families of the climbing club can get together. Ages range from children of six and seven with their parents to grandparents of sixty and seventy all having a nice time together.
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| How many kids are there? |
Three of the keener climbers amongst us went to try and find some climbing and sunshine towards the Colwyn Bay coast and had a very successful day which Darron has described in more detail below.
It stayed bright for the evening when we all had a bbq together and celebrated Darron’s xxx birthday with cake and wine and sausages!
On Sunday, the climbers went off climbing to Trevor Rocks and before packing up late afternoon, a group of people went for a walk through the forests of the Carrog Plantation while mums and dads and children went kayaking in a calm section of the River Dee near the Pont Carrog.
Climbing
Kevin had driven for 6 hours from his home in East Sussex to be with us for the weekend so, clearly, a priority for the climbers would be ensuring he ‘got a bit done’!
Castle Inn Quarry near Colwyn Bay has a reputation for being quick drying and its bolted routes should ensure getting something done. So it proved. Kevin, myself and Marion ticked the 3* classics of Route 1 (F5) and Route 2 (F6a). Not very inspiring names but genuinely good routes. Marion led Inspiration (F4) and I climbed the fingery wall to the left which is hopefully a new route at about F6a. If it is new it will be called ‘Birthday Boy’ because I was. Altogether 8 routes ticked on a day we expected nothing – so far so good.
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| Trevor Rocks from the Fort |
GELLIWIG - PORTHMADOG (March 2011)
On our arrival at Gelliwig we found that Gilly & Mo and Rendo & Sheila were already in residence and appeared to have made themselves comfortable as they greeted our attendance with a drink in their hand. Whilst the total number of attendees was a little down on normal our happy band quickly started to grow with the additional appearance of Melly, Suzanne and Allan.
In general the first night usually consists of people relaxing from their journey down from Cheshire with a drink (or two) and catching up on what has happened over recent times. This year proved no exception with everyone quickly settling into the normal routine as wine, beer and gin flowed ensuring that we headed off to bed without a care in the world – with the exception of a certain member of the Henderson clan who was left wondering why only 1/10th of their bottle of gin remained !!
The next morning saw everyone up for breakfast and quickly getting ready for their chosen activities – which is unusual as it’s normally the crack of noon before activities take shape. Dave and Mo had decided to take the opportunity to get out on their bikes and swiftly headed off into Porthmadog, going over the causeway on the bike path towards Penrhyndeudraeth (try saying that after a couple of pints, or a cup tea come to that). At Penrh'what's it, they turned left to go over the little toll road (bikes go free so that was a bonus) onto the Harlech road and then north to cross the A487. Flat riding so far but then the next section climbs steeply though the forest to Rhyd. A white knuckle decent into Garreg, followed by a flat section again to Eric’s, resulted in the reward of a cup of tea and a nice piece of cake. Dave explained that it was a very pleasant ride and only about 16 miles.
Allan, Suzanne, Melly, Ian & Sheila chose to take advantage of the excellent weather and elected to stretch their legs with a walk to the West of Beddgelert. When we met later that evening Allan explained that they had done 3 moles!! Without wishing to appear rude I thought it better not to ask for more details just in case the RSPCA had to be contacted, but it became evident that he had meant they had climbed Moel Hebog, then over to Moel yr Ogof, before finishing with Moel Lefn (phew, they were just hills). A trip to the ice cream parlour was their reward for their efforts.
With the weather being as good as it was climbing figured quite highly on my wish list so Dave and I elected to climb on Tremadog’s Upper Tier, an area neither of us had previously climbed on. Quite short, single pitch routes provided plenty of opportunity to dust of the winter cobwebs and as these are not as popular as the main crags this ensured that there was always the prospect of us having the option of climbing, or taking a break and basking in the glorious sunshine.
As everyone congregated in the late afternoon back at Gelliwig Rob and Carol arrived and very quickly, after a quick wash and brush up, we all headed off to the Sportsman Hotel in the town for our evening meal. We had decided to dispense with the efforts of producing our own meals ‘in house’ and voted to live the high life for a change and dine in the restaurant. A wise choice as everyone thoroughly enjoyed the chance to sit, talk and eat together in a very pleasant and convivial environment.
Sunday arrived and it had been decided that Rob & Carol; Allan, Suzanne & Melly; Ian & Sheila, and Dave & Mo would set out on a mystery walk led by Allan. They drove out of Portmadoch, on the Criccieth road, and parked up at the birth place of Lloyd George. The walk followed a beautiful little river valley out of the village and then struck off over moorland where, as you can see by the photograph, they got a little bit lost. Spotting a farm they asked the farmer which way to go and he pointed across his fields saying "there are some very poor stiles to cross". These turned out to be very poor fences masquerading as very poor stiles. Dave did take some uncomplimentary photos of the various stile climbing, but refuses to put them into the public domain for fear of reprisal. Once again the day’s events ended up with a cup of tea and a nice piece of cake in the garden of a cafe. “Well led Allan” was the cry.
Being gluttons for punishment Dave and I thought that another days climbing sounded a good idea. After a quick discussion we headed off to the Llanberis Pass to follow in the footsteps, or is it rock shoes, of Julia Bradbury and try our luck climbing Crackstone Rib. As always the weather within the pass can be very hit and miss in comparison to the coast and so it proved again.
Although generally dry and bright the strong wind and climbing in the shadows made life a little bit uncomfortable, but undeterred we pushed onwards and upwards, made it to the top, and as we looked down into the valley and across at the stunning views of the mountains in front of us we brought the day, and our very enjoyable weekend away, to an end feeling very satisfied with our efforts.
Write-up by Allan, blog and pics added by Dave
El Chorro in November
We got an El Cheapo (Ryanair) flight to Malaga, hired a car and drove up to the Olive Branch Guest House - Campsite.
This place is highly recommended, especially for climbers, as there are a lot who go there, and one guy in particular, Martin, who is based there on a semi-permament basis in a tent, is a mine of information. Gary the owner told us about him and Martin lent us his copy of the latest Rockfax guide, complete with his own amendments - mainly grades and star ratings - which we ended up agreeing with.
There are a lot of errors in the latest guide -bound to happen I know, but some were pretty unforgiveable - such as pitch lengths being quoted as WAY too short - very dodgy when it's somewhere you lower off, and shows how you've got to be on the ball even when bolt-clipping to avoid silly accidents! Anyone using the shiny new Rockfax guide -YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!Anyway, me and Chris spent most time in our 4 day trip up on the crags above the village, with 2 visits to the Arab Steps, and routes thereabouts. Excellent climbing and some amazing rock - lovely friction and not much polish either. We both got up some 6b's, which was quite a surprise (to me!) so the grades aren't too pushy - though there is the occasional 5+ that can still repulse, so not entirely consistent.
We only made it down the Camino del Rey on the last morning, when it rained, so it was a quick dash to the end and back to see the sights (fancy the look of Zeppelin - if you can aid the hard bit!) and rush off to the airport.
We'd definitely go again, there's tons of stuff to do. And we'd stay at the Olive Branch again, as it was only about a tenner a night indoors, with good cooking facilities. (8 quid in a tent/bedding that they provide). Gary and Mel are really friendly too, but this ain't the place to go for drinking late into the night - they value some peace, and the campers in the garden tend to be keen climbers who need some sleep! According to Gary, the party place is the Finca La Campana, but he might be saying that for his own reasons!
Post added by Dave.
A Grand Day Out to Llangollen
The views from Trevor Rocks were beautiful on such a good day, and much climbing, walking, picnicing, and dodgy belaying (Darron!) was done, as you can see....



A good evening at Trevor Rocks
Here's a link to the routes there from Gary Gibson's website.
...and an idea of the view...
Cheers,Dave
Marion and Darron's Easter Cragging in Spain
Dave and Karen, who were staying in the Calpe area came to stay one night – we had a great evening and then the next day we got in a bit of climbing at La Poncha and a walk, part of which was a scramble along a ridge. It is certainly a place which needs further exploration on a future visit not only from a climbing perspective but also for walking.
It was quite incredible how few people we came across at the crags – 2 groups of Brits and a few Spanish parties so we ended up with a great choice of the best routes the area offers – within my grade of course…!!!
For me there were several personal highlights as ever encouraged and supported by Darron. I have done quite a bit of multi pitch climbing but have never climbed a face like the Derecha del Espolon before – looking at it from the car park was a daunting experience in itself. My palms were quite sweaty and I had not even begun the walk in…!!! The route is 600 feet long, tackled in four long pitches but even more daunting were the 5 abseils to reach the ground again after the climb. Darron felt it was about VS and certainly worth its 3 stars. It was fabulous and exhilarating and I am ready to tackle another on our next visit to Spain.
Black line is line of ascent & blue line of abseils
We would highly recommend the area and the apartment we were renting. There is certainly plenty of climbing and walking to occupy a couple of weeks holiday – and the coast and nature reserves are well within reach for rest days.
Marion
Spring Hut Meet, Rhyd Ddu
Saturday morning dawned (?) at 8.15 a.m. with a cup of tea kindly provided by the Gilbert family which allowed everyone to make an early start on both breakfast and their picnic preparation. Whilst the weather for the morning was looking promising the forecast for later in the day wasn’t and so climbing was out of the question. The groups decided to go their separate ways; one to walk the foothills of Snowdon, the second to amble around the river and hills of Beddgelert and the third to pedal off on a bike ride around one of the local cycle routes.
Whilst everyone expressed their enjoyment of their respective activities a deterioration in the weather, but not quite as bad as the Chamonix rain, saw everyone back at the house by early afternoon. Following a warming brew an early exit to the pub was justified with the excuse that people wanted to watch Wales produce a Grand Slam victory against France. It appeared that the rest of the village and surrounding areas also had that same idea as there was little room left in the pub when we arrived, so we had to make do with listening to the commentary, accompanied by the vocal backing of the locals. With a victory secured we head back for a belated evening meal - and a few more drinks !
A slightly later start to the morning on Sunday saw most people consume a hearty breakfast to get them ready for another day’s activities. The weather was slightly colder than the previous day, with a stronger wind, which brought with it the threat of more rain, or even the possibility of snow. Snow could already be seen on the summit of Snowdon, but this didn’t stop the majority of people from heading off with the intention of having a crack at the top. However, with discretion being the better part of valour, a change of heart part way up saw a less formidable challenge undertaken to make the most of a very changeable day.
The only climbing of the weekend was done by Nick and myself on the indoor walls at the nearby Beacons venue, although this wasn’t exactly what we had hoped for it was nevertheless welcome as it had been a little while since we had the opportunity to climb together.
Late afternoon saw people head off home with a very enjoyable weekend securely behind them and the prospects of, hopefully, better weather to come for the Family & Friends meet on Anglesey at the end of June.
Written by Alan Brown
Photos by KarenFriends and Family Climb Shuttlingsloe
On Sunday (14th October 2007) the Climbing Club went to Macclesfield Forest. We had lots of fun playing games. After, we got organised and started to go up the hill. The weather was a bit bad and we couldn’t see very well. The children got some leaflets which we had to fill in. We had to try and find the things in the leaflet. We stopped at the edge of the forest and had our lunch. Then we went up some steep steps and the steps were pretty unbalanced and it was hard to get up. Most of the children were first to the top of the hill and the grown-ups were slow and we had to wait a little bit! We had a photograph at the top and there was a sheep on a rock. It looked very funny. When we came back down again the grown-ups were lagging behind the kids. The children took turns holding my dog called Skippy. When we got down the hill the shop was selling cakes and ice lollies so we all had some. The children played sardines in the field. It was fun going on the trip and we really liked it.
Kate Owen (Aged 8)
SOUTH CHESHIRE CLIMBING CLUB AUTUMN MEET
This is a chance for families and friends to meet up before the clocks turn back.
meet at:
Trentbank Car park.
Macclesfield Forest (link below)
11am
Sunday 14th October
Perhaps have a cup of tea together before setting off on an activity to suit. You may like:
a walk in the forest
a bike ride
mountain biking
climbing at Windgather
a walk up Shuttlingsloe
meet up again at 3.30 – 4pm before setting off home
Hope you can make it.
Email marionspice@tiscali.co.uk if you are coming.
Reaseheath Climbing Wall Dates
South Cheshire Climbing Club
Amended version 1st Nov
Reasheath climbing wall. Winter 2007-2008
Wednesdays, 7-9pm
17th Oct,
21st Nov,
19th Dec. Xmas fancy dress for the kids? (Big and small!)
6th Feb.08.
12th March 08
£2.50 Adults
£1.50 Children
Non climbing belayers: free
Non climbing friends/gossipers/hangers on: free
More details contact Darron: dadger@tiscali.co.uk
Reasheath location link:
Enter campus by the main entrance on the B (Worleston) road. Entrance through barriers until 20.30. Exit anytime(!). Park on main car park and walk straight ahead to Lord Wolley centre & sports hall.
Chamonix in July.
Me (Dave), Karen and Chris headed out to meet up with Al, Suzanne, Melly and Andy, and next day John and Helen, at the Mer de Glace campsite.
The first Sunday was nice, and me Karen and Chris did a Lac Blanc circuit
while lots of brave fit people were finishing the Chamonix marathon. A,S M+A went cragging in the valley.But then the rain and cold came and put paid to ambitions to (a) get up Mont Blanc, (b) get up the Aiguille du Tour, (c) get up anything really...........apart from the climbing wall,

which did a roaring trade from all us soggy Brits abroad...
Despite the forecast claiming that it would clear up soon (political forecasting?) it remained pretty dismal, despite John Helen and Chris's brave effort to do the Tour. Having flogged up to the Albert Premier hut, next morning there was snow everywhere, and no visibility. I believe some comfort was gained from learning that the guides had been having an equally naff season up to then.
While they were heading up in hope, the rest of us did a very fine walk
to the Emosson dam, at which point it started chucking it down. Still impressive to see the bolt on route all the way up the front wall though - madness!
Quote for the day was from Melly, "I'm wetter than I've ever been!" Weve never been more grateful to stumble upon a refuge selling hot chocolate and chocolate cake....Down in Argentiere, Dave was peeved that Vin Chaud was off the menu at the bar- apparently it's not a "summer" drink...
One more day of sh**e prooved too much, and A,S,M and A sacked it off and headed home, while the rest of us (with a couple more days spare, and inspired by the blue stuff visible on the Briancon webcam) headed south to the Ecrins, camping at Freissinieres.
With blue sky and a good forecast at last, we all headed up to the Glacier Blanc refuge
, and John and Chris had a crack at the Barre des Ecrins, Dave jibbing out with a "souvenir" cold from Cham. (or maybe I'm just unfit!) They made it to the snow summit, but global warming and crazy Frenchmen prevented them doing the last ridge to the top. (Nasty pitch off glacier onto ridge, now glacier is lower...)
Meanwhile Dave and Helen sampled the delights of Freissinieres crag, Helen doing a French 6a and well chuffed. Karen went for a walk and found some lovely views.

After the heroes returned from the mountain, Dave and Chris had a big day cragging finally in HOT weather at Freissinieres,
with lots of 6as and finishing with an ascent of the original route of the crag, Fissure Keller. Must be a classic, surely??? But after a good juggy 1st pitch, with some thrutching thrown in for interest, it headed into the bowels of the crag, and ended up with 2 pitches of back and footing up bat poo! Lovely route to finish the trip, but it was definitely an experience.
The hot day (Sunday) was followed by thunderstorms, and just to confirm the weather was up the creek, on their last morning (Tuesday), John and Helen scraped ICE off the car windscreen before starting the long drive home!!!









